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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.